T-150 Clutches

The T-150 (or T150 or 150-T) Tremec 3-speed trasmission has several clutch sizes available. (1-1/16 10 spline input)

9 Inch
(AMC Car Applications)

Kit - SACHS Part # K166904
Kit - ACDELCO Part # 381136 replaces 88989157

Disk - SACHS Part # SD1228

10-1/2 Inch (10.4)
(Jeep 258/V8 Applications)

Kit - SACHS Part # K151001
Kit - ACDELCO Part # 381143 replaces 88989164

11 Inch (10.95)
(Large Jeep Applications with 258)

Kit - SACHS Part # K185801
Kit - ACDELCO Part # 381155 replaces 88989180

While the 9" is adequate for a 232 or 258 in stock form, those considering any performance upgrades should consider the larger clutches.

Headlight Switch Terminals

A general description of what the pins on a headlight switch mean, in case you need to adapt a switch or are upgrading your headlights to add relays.

• B1 - Headlight power, switches on second pull to H
• B2 - Power for all other illumination
• D - Dome light, connects to ground when the switch is turned full CCW
• H - Headlights, on at second pull
• I - Illumination, on during both first and second pull and controlled by rheostat
• P - Parking Lights, on at first pull only and not used (See expiation below)
• R - Rear Lights, on at first and second pulls and connected to marker lights, connected to P on first pull

Prior to 1968 front parking lights were off when headlights were on. For 1968 the laws changed and the front parking lights were required to stay on so that if a headlight burned out that the car retained a lit bulb on that side and was not confused by oncoming drivers for a motorcycle. Since then the lights were ganged on the terminal for the rear marker lights.

Speedometer Cable Ends

I haven't measured for length, but I'm confident that the Dorman/Techoice 03192 Speedometer Cable is the correct cable for Pacers with overdrive. The quick connector appears correct and the threaded end fits the overdrive speed sensor.

Update on Thursday, May 10, 2012 at 10:47PM by Ben M.

1. The new cable isn't the same quality as the old one, the line is a bit smaller in diameter.
2. The inside cable is too long, it was making the needle very jumpy.
3. It should fit both the OD and non-OD transmission with the speedometer cable insert, the connectors are the same on both sides of the OD sensor.
4. The whole assebly is longer, which is good as the OEM part just fits.
5. Be very careful with the plastic quick-connect end. I broke mine easily.

I ended up pulling my origional apart after I broke the end and finding it in good condition re-lubed everything and now it's as "smooth as butter".

Generic Six Cylindar Emissions

Hooking up the required emissions on your AMC 6 isn't hard, just do it one function at a time.

To start, pick up some T's and a lot of 5/32 hose and add each system until you're done. Long runs do better with rigid nylon tube, commonly available at any auto parts store. It has less volume and is less prone to collapse. A short bit of hose makes a fine connector on the ends.

You'll probably need a bit of 3/8 and 1/2 for the PCV valve and canister.

Pulse-Air and Smog Pump systems will be discussed later.

EGR: The emissions port if you have it, or the distributor port if not, goes through the CTO valve so it's open hot, through the vacuum temperature switch on the air cleaner, a delay valve slowing opening, and on to the EGR valve. The EGR valve uses a combination of vacuum and back pressure to control gas flow and older types had a separate back pressure valve.

Canister: One hose goes from the emissions port, through the CTO (you can just tap into the EGR hose at this point), then to a delay valve slowing opening, and to the control diaphragm on the canister. Another "Purge" hose goes from a port on the canister that is controlled by the first hose and T's into the PCV port. The remaining ports go to the tank vent and the carburetor vent if equipped.

PCV: This is a big hose. From the valve, to a T for the canister, and into the large port in the back of the carb just for PCV.

Distributor: From the distributor port (or spark port, or ported vacuum) across the engine to a purple Motorcraft delay valve that usually has "dist" and " carb" printed on it then to the distributor. If you have no emissions port on the carb, place emissions items on this line next to the carb. The delay valve is usually 2-3" from the distributor and no branches should come between it and the distributor.

TAC (Air cleaner heat riser): There is usually a vacuum port on the carb designed for the TAC, the hose goes from there to a special air valve in the cleaner, then to the motor on snorkel. Many times a reverse delay valve or a check valve (slowing the closing of the motor) is between the valve and the motor.

If you are using an open element filter, cap the port.

Some air cleaners may have a second door in the snorkel. This should get a delay or check valve as well and connect to a T between the carb and the air valve in the air cleaner. It should open as soon as the engine starts and remain open until the engine is turned off.

Vacuum accessories: The 4wd switch, if equipped, and the heater go to the vacuum port near the runner to cylinder 6.

Brake Booster: The brake booster goes to a large port below the carburetor.

Economy Indicator: An economy gauge, vacuum gauge, or economy light is generally plugged into a dedicated port in the intake manifold if available as bleed from another source can affect the reading. If none is available, the brake booster line or accessory location are preferable. If there is an inside gauge then use a small diameter hard line to avoid pinches and kinks.

Heater Valves (For All AMCs)

When you look for heater valves for your AMC or Jeep there are two types. There is the basic inline and there is a bypass valve.

For most vehicles before 1982 and all after a bypass valve was specified. While the inline valves are cheap and plentiful, I would recommend everyone with a 4 or 6-cylinder either use the bypass valve or eliminate the valve entirely.

The reason that AMC used the bypass valve is that the inline 6, unlike the V8 has no bulit-in bypass for the cooling system. Without a way for coolant to flow before the thermostat opens the head will heat much faster then the block. This causes problems with head gaskets, with thermostat cycling, and creates excess wear on both the head and the piston bores. I believe it was also one of the causes of the need to re-torque the head on the old 195.6 engines.

All AMC heater control valves are normally open (they allow water to the heater core) and close with vacuum applied. I have found 4 styles available, two specified with a six, the only difference is the bend in one of the nipples, and one for the AMC 150 that has several bends. These three are generally priced at $80-$100.

The forth style is specified for Jeep Cherokees through 1998 and is plastic, after that Chrysler simply dropped the part and allowed the heater core to remain in the loop at all times. The plastic part does age faster, and there are common complaints of it weeping from the valve, but the big advantage is that it is available for under $20 at any parts store.

The disadvantage of eliminating the valve is that it adds some to cabin heat, but it is certainly an almost free fix.

These valves are all interchangeable, part numbers to come.